THEORY ASSESMENTS

12/12/08

Completed Assesments

We have completed the following theory assesments during this course.
- Install and Replace Windows
- Explosive power Tools
- Fixing out
- Cladding and linings
- Health and safety for Carpenters 2

THEORY BOOKS COVERED

11/12/08

During this course we have studied the following books,
- Install and replace windows
- Explosive powere tools
- Fixing out
- Claddings and linings.
- Health and Safety for Carpenters 2

INSTALL AND REPLACE WINDOWS

This book covers the different types of buildings we may face in the building industry. eg brick, stone, concrete, timber, brick venere and how these may affect how we do our job. The book covered venere buildings and how they affect how we install doors and windows. we covered the diferent wall ties, roof ties and hinges used and how and where they are used.

EXPLOSIVE POWER TOOLS

This book is explained in one of my ealier blogs

FIXING OUT

The fixing out theory book covers all the different types of mouldings that are commonly used in the carpentry industry. from architraves to skirting, coving, scotia, and all the different profiles they come in and where they go. This book continues on to explain how we are to calculate lengths of mouldings and how to invoice clients the quantity and cost.

CLADDINGS AND LININGS

This book covers the cladding side of our course. It covers the diferent materials that are available, the fixings that should be used for them, and the diferent flashings, clips and joiners that are available for each product. It covers sarking and water proofing of cladding buildings and explains the starndards of using different products. This book also covers the material calculations of cladding and the cost invoicing.

HEALTH AND SAFETY FOR CARPENTERS 2

We covered this health and safety book and studied for the test. It covered workplace housekeeping, firefighting,safety signs, hazardous, materials, noise, and emergencies. we did the test on this which i recieved 98%.

SAFE WORK METHOD

8/12/08

Practical Cladding Assesment

Installing Sisolation-
hazards; cutting with knife
Controls: careful handling,

Install flashings-
Hazards; sharp edges
Controls; gloves, careful handling

Install corner mouldings-
Hazards; drop saws, routers
Controls: use of ppe, careful handling

PROJECT CONSTRUCTION PLAN

8/12/08

Practical Cladding Assesment

Install Sisolation
The first thing we will have to do is to put our sisolation on the walls we need to clad. Making sure our laps are correct and will maximise weatherproofing.
Tools- knife, clouts

Install Flashings
After our sisolation is on, we will need to install our flashings down the external and internal coners of our walls.
Tools tin snips, clouts

Install corner moulds
After our Flashing are installed, we can put our corner moulds in place, running vertically from 50mm below the bottom of the plate and hard up to the top of the wall. The internal mould should be around 30 x 30mm and the external somewhere around 45 x 45mm with a 12x 12mm rebate out of one corner so that it can fit around the corner of the wall.
Tools- drop saw, router, bench saw, nails/ screws.

Install weatherboards
After the corner moulds are in place, we will then be able to start cladding. starting by putting a fillet along the bottom so that the bottom board kicks out like the rest of the boards, we can start cladding from the bottom up. making sure the boards are level and fit nice and tight we can nail them off just above where the board below would be. We will need to watch for our 25mm lap, to ensure that it stays consistant.
Tools drop saw, hammer, clouts/nails, ruler

PROJECT CONSTRUCTION PLAN

2/12/08

Project: Window installation

CONSTRUCTION STEPS, HOW IT HAPPENS, TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT

Placing raw frame into vice.
We were given a raw timber frame with a window in it.We fixed the frames in
our vices in order to install our window sashes and clad around them
Tools- vice

Putting sisolation on.
After our frames are secured in the vice, we put our sisolation (brown Building paper) on. making sure our laps are going the right way.
Tools-knife, staples

Installing window
Put window into the frame to figure out where our packers need to go to make it level and plum, with a consistant spacing all the way around. Once the window is packed in tight, it can then be
nailed into the wall frame through the side of the sash, making sure ure nails go through the packers to prevent twisting the window sash.
Tools- drop saw, hammer, level

Install flashing
Install our flashings above the window to ensure that it is kept water tight, knowing that if we run flashings down the sides aswell it will increase the water proofing of the window.
Tools- tin snips.

Install cladding
After our flashings go in we need to install our cladding around our window. Starting from the bottom of our frame, upwards, we will clad our wall ensuring that our boards are level, and the same hieght from the bottom on each side.
Tools- drop saw, nails, hammer, tape measure

Install gyprock
Once we finish cladding our walls we will turn our focus on the inside of the frame and window.
the first step here is to put up our gyprock for our internall cladding.
Tools- glue, nails/ screws, knife. straight edge

Install window sill nosing
After our gyprock goes on we can then put our sill nosing in. We will have to measure our check outs for our horn nosing, and measure our Architraves to calculate how long our horns need to be. we will then cut out for our horns using a drop saw, band saw and we will put our bullnose profile on them with a router.
Tools- drop saw, band saw, router

Install jamb packers
After out sill nosing goes in, there will be a gap between the window sash and the inside edge of the gyprock. this will need to be covered up with some Jamb packers. the gap that is left between the edge of the gyprock and the frame will be covered up with the architraves next.
Tools- drop saw, rule, brad gun

Install architraves
After our Jamb packers go in we are then eble put our Architraves around the window. Remembering our 10mm margin, cutting our mitres in the top corners, we need to fit the architraves as neat as possible making sure we fit them down hard on our horns.
Tools- Mitre saw, brad gun, rule.

Install Scotia
The last step will be to install the scotia under the sill nosing.
Tools- mitre saw, brad gun

CALCULATION ASSESSMENT

9/12/08

QUESTION 1
SPECIFICATIONS

Wall height 2400
Window 1 & 2 1300 high
Window 3 1200 high
Window 4 1500 high
Door 2100 high

Cover of Weatherboards 160mm

Waste 7%

Cost of board $725 per metre.

Perimeter
(8550 + 5200) x 2 = 27.5 m

Area
27.5 x 2.4 = 66 sqm

Area of openings
(1600 x 1300) x2 = 4.16 sqm
1100 x 1200 = 1.32 sqm
1700 x 1500 = 2.55 sqm
2100 x 900 = 1.89 sqm
=9.92 square metres

Nett area of house
66 - 9.92 = 56.08 sqm

Coverage of boards
1000 / 160 = 6.25lm of board in a square metre.

Weatherboards required for job
56.08 x 6.25 = 350.5 lineal metres of board required.

Add for waste
350.5 x 1.07 = 375.4 lm

Cost of board
375.4 x $7.25 = $2719.00


QUESTION 2

SPECIFICATIONS

Window 1 & 5 1350 high
Window 2, 3 & 4 1800 high
Window 6 1200 high
Door 2100 high

Wall hieght 2400

Sheets available 2.7 x 1200

Allow 7.5% waste

Cost of sheeting is $6.45 per square metre

Perimeter
(10110 + 7030) x 2 = 34.280

Area
34.280 x 2.4 = 82.272 sqm

Area of openings
(1500 x 1350) x 2 = 4.05 sqm
(1200 x 1800) x 2 = 4.32 sqm
1800 x 1800 = 3.24 sqm
1800 x 1200 = 2.16 sqm
2100 x 900 = 1.89 sqm
= 15.66 square metres

Nett area
82.272 - 15.66 = 66.612 squre metres to be clad

Sheet area
2700 x 1200 = 3.24 sqm per sheet

No. of boards required.
66.612 / 3.24 = 20.55 sheets
Add for waste
20.55 x 1.075 = 22.10 sheets
After rounding up, 23 sheets are required.

Cost
23 x 3.24 = 74.52 sqm
74.52 x $6.45 = $480.65

8/11/08



WEATHERBOARDS

EXERCISE 3



Specifications


Wall height is 2700
Windows 1&5 1200 high
Windows2,3&4 1100 high
Window 6 950 high
Doors 1&2 2100 high

Cover of weatherboards is 205mm

Allow 7% waste (all measurements obtained from house plan on page 31 of book "CLADDINGS AND LININGS")

Cost of board is $ 2.20 per metre

STEP 1
Perimeter
9690 + 5908 x 2 = 31.196metres

STEP 2
Gross area
31.196 x (wall hieght) 2.7 = 84.2292 square metres

STEP 3
Total area of openings
(1500 x 1200) x 2 =3.6 sqm
(1200 x 1200) x2 = 2.64 sqm
1800 x 1100 =1.98 sqm
1800 x 950 = 1.71 sqm
900 x 2100 = 1.89 sqm
=11.82 square metres

STEP 4
Nett area
84.2292 - 11.82 = 72.4092 square metres

STEP 5
coverage of the boards
1000 / 205 = 4.878m

STEP 6
metres of boards required
72.4092 x 4.878 = 353.22 lm

STEP 7
add for waste
353.22 x 1.07 = 377. 94

STEP 8
Total cost
377.94 x $2.20 = $831.47

CLADDING

8/12/08

This morning we completed our practical cladding assesment, on the steel house frames at the back of the C&J buildings. We did this assignment in pairs and used 6mm mdf in place of real weatherbaords.

SISOLATION AND FLASHINGS

Our first step was to put timber nogs in the corners (internal and external) to ensure that we had something to fix to when we put our baords on. We then put our sisolation on the walls with a 150mm lap to ensure maximum water resistance. We then installed our flashings in the internal and external corners.

CORNER MOULDINGS

We installed corner mouldings, internal and external, so that the weather boards had something to but up to, and to improve the asthetics of the cladding. The internal moulding only have to be a square strip to fit up to corner(eg 30mm x 30mm) The external moulding should be bigger( eg 45mmx45mm) with a rebate down one corner so that it fits onto the corner and can be fixed into the corner stud. These corner mouldings should be installed with 50mm hangover the edge of the floor, so that water is directed away from the building.

CLADDING

The bottom board id the first to go on and should be flush with the bottom of the corner moulding and level. making sure that the bottom board is packed out at the bottom to ensure it carries the same profile as the boards above them. The boards are screwd through the top sheet, just above where the board below would finish. Every few boards you should check for level, ensuring you keep at least a 25mm lap over each board. If joins are needed between corners, boards should be joined on a stud.

HANGING DOORS, PRACTICAL

5/12/08
This morning we did our practical assesment on installind doors. We had to hang a normal door with furniture, and hand a double door with furniture.

HANGING SINGLE DOOR
Firstly, we pushed our doors hard up into the top of the frame with a 2-3mm gap at the top, and worked out if we had to plain the edges of the door for it to fit the frame. After we planed the doors down to the desirable size, we again pushed them hard into the top with 2-3mm gap, and marked our hinges on the door. Measuring our set back for our hinge off our frame, we checked our hinge leaf rebates and fitted our hinge leaves. we then fit the door to the frame and checked it for wind and even spacings around the door. once we had achieved this we then fit our door furniture (handle and lock) and checked for firm closing, acounting for painting to fill the gap.

HANGING DOUBLE DOORS
this process was the same as with one door except for the fact that the two doors need to be flush at the top with each other and having to watch out for wind a lot more than with one door. these doors were fitted with handles and roller catches before finishing.

SAFE WORK METHOD

Safe Work Method Statement
Student name
Cameron Greaves

Supervisor/Lecturer:_Graham White_____________________

Date:_2/12/08______________ Accepted Yes / No
Workshop/college grounds
Carpentry Workshop
Job/work to be carried out. Installation of window




Work Activity Potential hazards Safety Controls
Placing raw frame into vice Dropping, hammering fingers careful handling Correct lifting
Putting paper on Cutting with blade careful handling, ppe
Installing window Dropping onto feet Ppe, careful handling, correct lifting
Install flashing Sharp edge, may cause cuts Gloves may be worn
Install cladding Using power saws Eye protection, careful handling
Install gyprock Heavy lifting Correct lifting, handling procedures
Install window sill nosing Use of power saws, tools Eye protection, careful handling
Install Jamb packers Use of power saws, tools Eye protection, careful handling
Install architraves Use of power saws, tools Eye protection, careful handling
Install scotia Use of power saws, tools Eye protection, careful handling
Steel cap boots (ppe) worn throughout
activity

INSTALLING SKIRTING BOARDS

4/12/08

This morning we learnt how to install skirting boards. We went through the theory book (Fixing out) yesterday. We used custom wood mouldings for skirting boards and fixed them to a block whick represented a house in theory, and what you might encounter on the job. (eg, door Architraves, internal corners, external corners and stop returns.) We learnt the different ways of joining internal corners, and how to scribe for internal corners. we also learnt how to join and cut into door architraves. This was a very practical session in the workshop, and was a great opportunity to improve on our hand skills. After we finished the skirting boards we run some Quarter round (quad) around the bottom to finish it off.

Things Learnt

- differnt cuts for joining into vertical architraves such as door frames.

- scribing.

- hand skills.

MACHINERY

3/12/08

On tuesday afternoon, as we were needing use various different machines in order to complete our window tasks, we were given information and training on the number of different tools and machines in the workshop. this was carried out by our lecturer Graham, who emphisised the importance of safety while using these machines. We were given instructions on how to use machines such as,

- Thicknesser

- band saw

- Buzzer

- Drop saw

- Radial arm saw

- bench/ripping saw

The use of ppe in the workshop was also emphisised, especially the wearing of eye protection.

PRACTICAL WINDOW INSTALLING

3/12/08

Over tuesday afternoon and wednesday morning we installed a timber window into a timber frame wall. We covered the theory book (installing and replacing windows) on tuesday morning to cover the guidlines and constuction industry standards on fitting windows and doors.

INSTALLING WINDOWS

We were given a naked wall frame with a widow opening in the middle. We fixed these into our vices and clad them with sisolation (brown building paper). We did this ensuring that it would be water proof with the laps being over the bottom sheet and with the sheets running horizontally. After this we were ready to install the windows. Using packers to ensure our window sash was level and plumb in the frame, we fixed the sash into the frame using nails, making sure we nailed through the packers to aviod any misshaping of the sashes. Before nailing, we also checked that our frames were set forward in the frames enough for our cladding to have enough edge to butt up to. This being important for waterproofing and a desirable looking finish.

CLADDING AROUND WINDOWS

Flashings are important for keeping water out all around the home and windows are no different. if a window is located under a large verandah in Australia, considering our limited rainfall. you may be able to get away without a flashing above a window. But on the otherhand, if a window is in a wall with just eves or no eves, it is very wise to install a flashing when cladding around a window. flashings are put in place before cladding is installed so that waterproofing can be ensured. Top flashings are essential where flashings are required and should be placed under the top sheet of cladding and should protrude coming over the top edge of the window to ensure no water can run down in behind the window. Side flashings can be installed if wanted, but the sides of windows can be waterproofed with just a bead of silicone between the ends of the boards and the edge of the widow. We cladded around our windows ensuring we kept our heights the same each side, all the way up.

CLADDING AROUND WINDOWS (INSIDE)

After we finished cladding the outside of our window, we turned our frames around started cladding the inside of our frames with 3mm mdf which was simulating gyprock. After we finishing this we installed our window sill (which we used a Router for to put a Bullnose profile on the front and side), ensuring that we made our horns long enough on each side for the architrave to come down and sit on with 10mm extra for an attractive finish. After our sills were in place we cut our window jamb strips to pack the sash out flush with the "gyprock", ready for the architraves. These Jamb strips had a margin from the original sash jamb by 10mm to keep the same profile of the sash flowing into the Architraves for a neat looking finish. Lastly we put our Architraves around the frame, covering the gap between the jamb and the Gyprock, leaving a very neat and attractive finsh. To finish this window off completely would have been to run a length of Scotia underneath the sill to cover up any gaps, or to just finish it off. This scotia would have been returned into the wall once the gap of the window frame were covered on each side.

THINGS LEARNT

- Make sure the window is made waterproof

- Ensure that the window is installed level and plumb, not bound, and protruding enough for weather baords or cladding can be butted in for waterproofing.

- Think how far out you architraves will come out for the horns on the sill.

- Flow on with the style of the window when installing architraves.

- Watch for creeping boards when cladding on either side of the windows and watch for same hieght.

EXPLOSIVE POWER TOOLS

2/12/08
Yesterday we learned about EPT's and their applications on the jobsite. We covered areas such as the tools, application, safety procedures, and different fixings used with these guns. We looked through the manual on these (Explosive power tools) before practically firing an EPT. After this practical we undertook an assessment on EPT's which a recieved 100%.

TYPES
there are two types of EPT's. Direct acting and indirect acting. Direct acting EPT's use a small explosive charge to propell the fixing pin into the job, similar to firearms. Indirect acting EPT's use the same small charges behind a piston that hammers the fixing in, instead of forcing it in with the force of the charge only. Indirect acting tools are safer in the respect that they are driving the fixing in through force and not speed. most modern EPT's are now indirect due to them having magazines attached compared to the single shot direct acting tools which are generally older madels now. these magazines (usually clips of 10) make fixing more efficient as less time is spent relaoding. Indirect EPT's are also more popular in the modern construction industry compared to direct, because in Australia you are required to have a licence to use direct acting tools, whereas you dont need a licence to used indirect acting tools.

APPLICATIONS
EPT's are used to fix timber and steel, to steel, solid brick, and concrete. Care must be taken to ensure that you dont fire into fragile materials that may chatter or break. When firing into bricks it must only be solid type bricks. Hollow bricks are'nt dense enough to hold the pins. An example of where EPT's can be used is pinning down bottom plates of stud walls, or fixing bulkheads to the walls or to steel beams.

FIXINGS
There is a wide range of fixings available for used with EPT's. Fixings range from 22mm to 100mm for use in concrete and steel. Either of these options being able to go through timber. The calibre of fixings is dependent on which manufacturer you tool is made. Both of these have slightly differnt calibres to restrict those who buy their tools to having to buy their fixings also.

EPT SAFETY
Due to the nature of these tools, is important that all users are responsible when using them. some safety guidelines include.
- always ensure that eyewear and steel cap boots are worn.
- ensure bystanders are a safe distance of at least 6 metres away before firing.
- never fire into plastered walls unless sure of what is behind.
- warn others before you fire
- if a charge does not go off, leave the tool in position against the job for ten seconds in case of late detonation.

For more information on these tools and more go to http://www.hilti.com/ or http://www.ramset.com.au/